The fully adjustable bracket selection provides an easy to use system for lifting sub frames without the use of struts. You can choose between 5 pedestals. You can adjust the height, please refer to the table below. When reaching the height required for the design of the terrace, you need to consider the adjustable height of the plinth, the thickness of the selected beams and the thickness of the selected slab.
1. Place the pedestal
Start at the edge of the proposed area and begin laying the decking pedestal in a straight line to create the grid layout. For grid lines supporting joyist spaces (grid line A), the distance between pedestals is determined by the maximum supported span of the joyst used (see table below for reference). For the grid lines that support the deck opening (grid line B), follow the standard 250-350mm spacing.
2. Place the beams on the pedestal
Once the plinth mesh is in place and properly aligned, insert each joist into the plinth mesh. The direction of the joists must be perpendicular to the direction of the deck. If necessary, rotate the base of each toe kick to level the joists. Use a spirit level to make sure the joists are level.
3. Attach joist mesh to pedestal
When the joyst is firmly seated, slide the joyst base over the sides of the joyst to secure the joyst to the base.
4. Fix the beams to the board
Butt joints must be supported by a plinth and an expansion space of 20 mm must be left between the two joys of the joint. With a 250mm long plastic lever, it acts as a crossbar for additional structural support.
5: Insert the card into the sub frame
After the substructure is installed, lay the board over the joist mesh according to the same rules outlined in the Deck Board Installation section. Starting with the first row of boards, use a starter clip and a metal or plastic Fast Clip to lower the proposed area and secure the board to the joists.